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This marks pumpkin season and my favourite time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. This Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of fresh ginger, chili and jaggery gives it a lovely flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is loaded with aromatic spices, basmati and clarified butter, which provide so much more taste to the strata of rice and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on October 6, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, warming, single-pot biryani? For convenience, make the spiced vegetable mixture component in advance and assemble everything on the day you want to serve.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, add the cumin, bay and clove spices, and sauté for a brief moment. Stir in the sliced onion and sauté, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and reserve (for later use during the assembly).

Add the green chillies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, cook for a minute, then stir in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Reduce to a gentle flame, blend in the yoghurt and simmer for two minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then fry for several minutes. Pour in the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, cover and cook gently for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to ensure nothing's stuck to the base of the pot. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Rinse the basmati, then place it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Heat to boiling, cook for 10-12 minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

For assembling the layered dish, place a tablespoon of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then layer with some the rice. Add half the saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala, then top with the caramelized onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then arrange the leftover rice. Top with the rest of clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Cover with baking paper, cover with the lid, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas soak into the grains. Take out of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for several minutes, then remove the cover and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Hindi term "pickling style" refers to seasoning a preparation using pickling spices, and the combination contains mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, hing and kalonji, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. This mixture also features in all manner of spiced dishes and stir-fries, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then set aside. Put the cooking oil in a large frying pan or Indian wok on a medium heat. Introduce the ground spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Add the ginger, fry for a minute, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for five minutes more.

Pour 50ml liquid to the pot, salt with seasoning to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, reduce the flame, and simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the jaggery, breaking up chunks a little, then add the dried mango, stir well and serve warm with flatbreads or naan.