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Reflected back at me, I can see myself in huge shimmering pantaloons, seen exclusively in my view. Youngsters play in a rock pool acting as mermaids, meanwhile in the next room rests a speaking vegetable in a showcase, alongside a imposing stack of mattresses. It embodies the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 1800s highly cherished writers. I’m in Odense, on the island of Funen in the southern part of Denmark, to discover the writer's timeless impact in his native city many decades after his demise, and to discover a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Museum: HC Andersens Hus

Andersen's House is the city’s cultural center honoring the storyteller, including his childhood house. An expert explains that in earlier iterations of the museum there was little focus on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was examined, but The Little Mermaid were nowhere to be found. For tourists who travel to this place in search of storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of the city center, redirecting a major road, provided the opportunity to rethink how the local celebrity could be commemorated. A major architecture competition gave Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the contract, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the layout. The distinctive wooden museum with interwoven spiralling spaces opened to great fanfare in 2021. “We have attempted to design an environment where we avoid discussing the author, but we speak in the manner of Andersen: with wit, irony and viewpoint,” explains the representative. The landscape design embrace this concept: “The outdoor area for strollers and for large beings, it's planned to give you a sense of smallness,” he explains, an objective achieved by clever planting, experimenting with verticality, proportion and multiple meandering routes in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

He authored two and a half autobiographies and regularly provided conflicting accounts. The museum adopts this philosophy seriously; frequently the opinions of his friends or fragments of written messages are presented to gently question the his narrative of happenings. “The author is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” says the expert. The effect is a fascinating whirlwind tour of his personal story and work, thought processes and favorite tales. This is thought-provoking and playful, for adults and children, with a bonus basement make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

Back in the real world, the modest urban center of the municipality is delightful, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes finished in cheerful shades. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the road indicators display the writer with his iconic characteristic hat, bronze footmarks offer a free Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this commitment peaks with the yearly Andersen celebration, which honors the writer's impact through art, dance, drama and musical performances.

During my visit, the seven-day festival had hundreds of events, most of which were free. While visiting Odense, I encounter painted stilt-walkers, ghoulish monsters and an Andersen lookalike narrating adventures. I hear empowering poetry and observe an incredible late-night performance featuring athletic artists coming down from the city building and dangling from a crane. Still to come this year are lectures, hands-on activities and, broadening the storytelling legacy beyond Andersen, the city’s regular Magic Days festival.

All good magical places deserve a fortress, and Fyn features numerous historic homes and manor houses across the island

Cycling and Exploration

As in most of Denmark, bikes are the perfect means to navigate in Odense and a “cycling highway” winds through the city centre. Departing from my accommodation, I pedal to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then beyond the city for a loop around Stige Ø, a small island connected by causeway to the mainland. Local inhabitants have outdoor meals here in the evening, or appreciate a tranquil moment fishing, aquatic activities or swimming.

Back in Odense, I visit Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is derived from author-inspired concepts and stories. The poem the patriotic piece is featured at the restaurant, and manager Nils Palmqvist recites passages, translated into English, as he presents each course. This is a practice commonplace in my visit, the local residents love a yarn and it seems that storytelling is constantly available here.

Castle Explorations

Each wonderful enchanted locations deserve a palace, and this region contains numerous historic homes and manor houses around the area. Going on excursions from Odense, I explore Egeskov Palace, the continent's finely maintained Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are accessible to the public, this historic site is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his spouse, the royal resident. I contemplate if she might sense a tiny vegetable through a mound of {mattresses